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Looking back from the climb a beautiful panorama showing Volcan Paniri as well as what us astronomers prosaically call the LMC (large magellanic cloud). The moon also is illuminating what looks like dirty clouds, which really is the volcanic smoke from San Pedro blowing overhead.

The mountain guide I hired to climb Llullaillaco suggested we first climb a different 6000+ peak of similar difficulty, but one we could do in a single day. I agreed, this seemed a sensible idea, after all I didn’t know how my body would react to these altitudes, and Llullaillaco is a multi day expedition, where it’s correspondingly harder to extract if something  goes wrong. Mariano (the first guide I hired) suggested we try San Pedro, the higher brother of San Pablo. Alejandro (the guide who ultimately came with) agreed that was a good choice, so we set off Sunday night at midnight from San Pedro de Atacama (the town I stay in) for the 3 hour drive.

San Pedro on the left and San Pablo on the right from where we parked the car, at 3am. For the astronomically inclined, the Pleiades are just above San Pablo, the Orion nebula as well as the three stars of the belt of Orion (upside down, we’re in the southern hemisphere!) are on San Pablo’s east flank, and right in the middle of image you can see the Andromeda nebula, M31, our nearest neighbour full size galaxy, about 2 million light years away!

We started our climb up into the saddle between the two peaks. The saddle is about 5200m altitude, so about a 1000m climb from where we parked the car. We made good progress initially, but the guide needed to stop every 45 minutes to take a 10 minute nap because he hadn’t slept at all. I took the opportunity to take photos.

While the weather is beautiful and clear, it also is a bit on the chilly side: -12C and a stiff breeze is blowing. As we’re climbing further into the saddle, the sun is starting to rise, giving a beautiful spectacle I had to stop numerous times to photograph.

The sun is rising behind San Pablo, keeping us in the cold shadow.

Finally in the saddle, Alejandro needed an hour long nap in the sun. I didn’t think too much of it, not having slept much the night before I got out my sleeping bag and warmed my feet in it while taking a nap myself. I didn’t know then that in the end this was the hour I was missing.

We rested here for an hour, enjoying the warm sun. The temperature was still well below freezing, but when kept out of the wind, the sun facing bits got nice and warm.

With still about 1000m in elevation to go, we made a move and started climbing the steep slope of San Pedro’s east flank. At first it went rather well, but as the slope increased to well over 30 degrees, the soft underground started to become problematic: Every step I take, I slide 3/4 of the step back down again.

The look down the slope we’re climbing up: The central crater of San Pablo (inactive) almost a kilometer further down in altitude from where this picture was taken! The dimensions are hard to capture on photos.

At some point, the altitude started taking its toll, I can’t really put a finger on a specific number, but it was shortly past what I knew from Lascar, so about 5600m perhaps. While I can arrange my breathing and energy needs just fine if every step goes to plan, as soon as I slide where I don’t expect it, or ever so slightly misjudge where the next step will provide solid footing, recovery becomes difficult. I have to stop after I catch myself, breathe, slowly start again, and all of this while keeping balance on this steep slope. At about 5800m I started to experience difficulty maintaining balance with my eyes closed, I took that as hint that I might be reaching my limit. I had to stop more frequently and slowed down to about 100m vertical climb per hour. At 5950m (I was still able to do the simple math in my head) I knew we were not going to make the peak in the planned time at the speed I was able to do. I sat down and came to one of the hardest decisions I’ve ever had to take: Calling it with 120m in elevation to go!

Alejandro, the guide, as I am telling him this is the limit. I can and will do another 50 meters so that I can claim 6000m elevation. We shook on it.

Alejandro told me he’s never had anyone do that before, in his words: “Usually, the French and Germans I take here say to me ‘I can go longer, let’s go!’ and they get up, do two steps, and fall down again, until I have to tell them they can’t go any higher. Because what am I going to do, carry them?” At least we were in agreement I thought. It’s never pleasant to admit defeat, but the positive experience I now carry with me is having gone to my limits, recognised them, and acted accordingly and responsibly.

Me at 6009m above sea level. I’m reflecting on my decision to turn back at this point. Disappointed, of course, but able to call it at the right time. Sometimes knowing when to quit is the pinnacle of the achievement.

This certainly was not my proudest moment, but a memorable one! We sat there for a while in silence, taking in the beautiful scenery as the icy cold wind gusts were racing up the mountain, showering us in ash and ice crystals. I was thinking about how I was going to express what was happening inside me in this post. I had no idea. But I figured the post would shape itself through its cathartic nature, and it did.

This is the view where we turned around, elevation 6009m (19714 ft). For my pilot friends, I walked on FL200 (within the tolerance anyway).

In this zoomed panorama, on the far right hand side you can see Licancabur, San Pedro de Atacama’s signature mountain, as well as Aguas Calientes and Lascar.

The entire climb took us exactly 12 hours, we left the car at 3am and were back at 3pm. We heated up some spaghettis Alejandro’s girlfriend had cooked for us, a very welcome meal after this long climb. As I’m driving away I stop the car to take a picture in daylight. From the comfort of 2500m elevation foothills, they look like hills, harmless, incapable of keeping me from getting on top with a bare 120m to go…

Looking back at San Pedro (left) and San Pablo (right). I have a feeling this is not the last time we have met!